Day 5: Mount Fuji, Lake Kowaguchiko

We got some good rest yesterday, and ate fairly light this morning. Even without dinner last night, we have felt full. We are learning about eating enough and not too much. What a concept!

It was back to New Hotel Otani for pick-up and delivery to the bus terminal for our day-long tour. What a day it was! Our guide, Nana-san, was a pure delight. My only regret is she was always in silhouette so I never got a good picture of her. She was beautiful inside and out. We were cared for, entertained and educated. It was really fun. She began by singing us a greeting song to the tune of Happy Birthday. Her voice was lovely.

Nana-san was concerned the weather was not good for seeing Mount Fuji or much else along the ride, so she came well prepared. She rigged a way to hang homemade posters in the aisle of how the mountain is layered; how the crater is layed out with shrines and hiking trails, and pictures of the mountain. She passed around prints of Mt. Fuji paintings and wood prints, and introduced us to the Mt. Fuji song created by the friction of the bus tires on the road. The song is different going up and coming down. We learned about Japan history, how rice is grown and the Japanese language. She had a song for everything! We sang along as we learned to count to ten.

We stopped for a delicious Japanese lunch at a nice hotel. The layered sections of sashimi, tempura and other delights were served in a gourd-shaped thingy. It was really delicious.

The weather in Hakone and on Lake Ashi was so bad they shut down the vernicular to the top of a smaller mountain and the boat cruise. Instead she rearranged the same events on a different mountain and on Lake Kowaguchiko. It was a wonderful experience with spectaular views of Mount Fuji. The sun came out and it was a lovely, warm afternoon.

Because the tour advertized Hakone and Lake Ashi, Nana-san felt compelled to take us there anyway. It became a welcome bathroom break.

She made sure we had all our connecting train tickets, and printed everything out for each family. She was thorough, efficient, kind, funny and sweet.

We have not tipped one person since we came here. The guide books encouraged it, but Yoshino said "no tipping anybody". We discovered it is really not expected. Nana-san was not offered a tip by anyone, but Larry and I wanted to tip her. I asked her politely to please accept the gratuity with our gratitude for all her hard work. She was flustered, but thanked us. It was awkward.

We tip way too much in America. Just saying... people here take pride in providing excellent service, and it is enough. Imagine that.

Day 4: Tokyo City Bus Tour

This was the first day on our own. After only a couple hours sleep, we had a lighter breakfast and left for The New Hotel Otani to be picked up. I can`t believe I`m eating Mackeral; steamed carrots, turnip and squash, and curry with vegetables over rice porridge for breakfast. I really like it.

We used the maps that our local guide, Mayumi, provided last Friday to find our way to the hotel. We arrived a little early, so we made a preventive bathroom run. We came out to find a Page carrying a sign reading "Mr. Larry Gardner" on it. I didn`t think I took that long!

As we approached the pick up area again, an Indian woman was firmly saying, "I think you should be more sensitive. I must get something for my baby from my room!" She was most annoyed with a young man we were being directed towards. We thought these were our only tour mates. Oh God, was all that went through my mind. Is this how the day will go? The man was in fact in charge of pickup and needed to get us moving as there were three more hotels to stop and pickup more attendees before delivering us to the bus terminal for our tour.

The terminal was chaos. We finally got in the right line and on our bus. The local guide was a professional young woman with a thick Japanese accent and an annoyingly high quality to her voice. Her speach and instructions for the day were somewhat patronizing and repetitive. "You will call me (Name I can`t remember)-sam. You will only call the driver, Driver-san because that is his job, and only speak to him in Japanese." Such was her humor and the tone for our half-day tour. The screaming baby with the smelly diaper that clearly annoyed her, and almost broke my eardrum when his daddy brought him behind us so the guide could talk was a test of all our resolves.

Tokyo Tower looked like an orange Eiffel Tower. We were escorted to the highest enclosed observation platform, 333 meters high. The views were magnificent, but I couldn`t hear a word the guide said. She practically ran ahead of us all morning, creating a stressful atmosphere and always began talking when she arrived whether the rest of us were there or not. Needless to say, we did not tip her. But, we got great shots of Tokyo from above. The observation floor just below us provided scary but really cool views through the floor to the ground way down there.

The Imperial Palace was closed, and we were escorted around the outside garden along the streets. "There are the two and three-story watch towers, but you can`t go into the palace grounds, so you`ll have to come back on either December 23rd or January 2nd(the Emperor`s birthday) when you can meet him and the Empress. They will stand behind bullet-proof glass on a platform above you and give a five-minute speach five times a day." Really? I think not, bitch. Why was this on our tour, we thought?

Our favorites were sites we planned to visit on our own because the Sanja spring festival was this past weekend and we couldn`t attend: Asakusa Shrine and the Nakamise Shopping Street between its sacred gates touting an experience from the Edo period (Tokyo`s old name).

Again, our guide was useless but she did help me auickly find my good fortune paper when I shook out a stick from a metal fortune-providing tube. And, she directed us to the entrance of the shrine. When we approached the inner sanctum, we were turned away by the monk. Our guide sealed her no-tip fate.

The building and concomitant shopping experience, complete with smudging station, were worth it though. I prayed, smudged, and prayed again. My cup of tea. But, we needed iced coffee, so we found a lovely cafe to rest our weary bones and aching feet; eat rice dishes and rest a while. The young wait staff were friendly, kind and spoke enough English to make our virgin excursion into unescorted Japan a joy.

We also did some shopping. The sweet older women with no English, but kind faces, nice smiles and helpful, patient hearts assisted me in buying a few souvenirs.

We found our own way back to a train station and through the subway maze to our hotel. We crashed at 1:30 pm and never left our room to eat again. We are just that tired. The best layed plans...

It was still a good day, and tomorrow we`re off to Mount Fuji.

Day 3A: Kamakura

My first attempt at describing this amazing day wouldn`t publish. I guess it`s too long. Since sleep continues to elude me, I`ll try again.

The Tokyo subway system is an absolute underground maze. We took several trains and buses and finally emerged at our destination an hour away. We were off to see the Great Buddha.

On the way, we came upon what Yoshino called "the ladies shrine". It was a temple created by the first chief nun, widow of a Shogun, in 1285 as a refuge for battered women. The law did not provide women the ability to divorce, but they could get one after living here three calendar years. It is nicknamed "The Divorce Temple". Chanting permeated the air along with birdsong and peace was my only feeling here. It is also a huge cemetary built along a hill with paths and stone steps framing Zen gardens and small monuments. It is just lovely.

We found a cute restaurant where we slurped Soba noodles and ate tempura. The toilet was Japanese-style: very low to the ground. Luckily there was a rail to use and hold myself over it. My knees couldn`t do the job.

We walked to Kencho-Ji Temple next. It is a compound of beautiful old Japanese architecture with a Buddha in every building. The most disturbing one was "Fasting Buddha". It resembled Starving Buddha to us with exposed ribs and a gaunt, sad face.

Here we made a 500 yen ($5) requested charitable donation for the victims of the recent earthquake and "accident" to experience a tea ceremony. Little girl apprentices to lovely Geisha served us and taught us how to drink tea. Everybody drinks green tea that is earthy tasting; an acquired taste.

Then I was invited by an older woman to learn simple flower arranging. It was a memorable visit where I felt respected and cared for. Did I say how much I love the bowing?

We went next to Kamakura Shrine where people leave prayers and wishes. We watched a lovely traditional wedding. People prefer getting married at shrines. Tourists took pictures of this very intimate looking event. On our way out, we met another party parading to the pagoda. I bowed and they smiled back.

The Great Buddha was beautiful. We washed our hands in the appointed watering place before entering the grounds. The gardens everywhere were spectacular! I bowed and prayed as I did at each site in thanks and gratitude. I passed on paying 20 yen to walk inside the Buddha, though. It just seemed wrong.

Our glorious day left us hot, exhausted and my feet "bahkin`". So we ended with delicious Chinese food. We`ll not see Yoshino again until Friday when he will once again play tour guide.

We`re taking a bus tour of the city today as our first official tour. I haven`t had much sleep. Time for an espresso.

Our Japanese Friends

Dr. Kouichi Yoshino was a Spectroscopist with Harvard University at the Center for Astrophysics in Cambridge, MA where we all worked. His wife, Shisuko, was a Librarian. She was born a city girl in Tokyo and he was a country boy far outside that city. His parents eventually moved there.

They lived in a Cape-style house in Lexington, MA. That house was jam-packed full of furniture, papers, books and "stuff". He retired after I did about 2008. They decided to move back to Japan, but keep the Lexington house for their three adult children to use, and to stay in when they returned to MA to attend classical concerts at Marlboro College and Tanglewood.

In 2011, they sold that house. I asked him how they let go of and got rid of all that stuff. In Tokyo, they live simply in a tiny two-bedroom apartment smaller than our original summer cottage in Tiverton, RI, for those who knew it. They moved a few pieces of furniture to Tokyo including the Form `N Teak (a furniture store in Lexington) table and chairs, a leather loveseat, a couple off large stereo speakers and a lovely grandfather clock. They left the rest for their children to dispose of.

But, at the behest of those children, they personally eliminated the office of papers and wall-to-wall shelves of books and the National Geographic collection back to 1950. The kids threw away lots and put a "free" sign on the rest in the front yard. Yoshino touted the power of the "free" sign to us with a smile.

They talked to us about "the Japanese way" of living quite a bit. This included the use of many small dishes for food, and a bathing room. This room with a door is attached to an entry room with a large sink and an all-in-one washer/dryer unit and contains a covered tub complete with wall inset tiny TV. After showering, they soak in the tub to get warm. They change the water every two days. Interesting.

I`ve talked about the Toto toilets. Theirs also contains a faucet on the tank for washing your hands after. No need for a separate sink, and it is in its own small room. The entry hallway has a little stool to sit on to remove your shoes. They provided us with slippers at the door, and flip flops to go out on the balconies of which there were two, also small.

Shisuko grows potted plants on their balconies. For shading, she grows a climbing Goya plant on a trellis on the East balcony, and climbing Morning Glories on a slanted trellis on the West balcony off Yoshino`s bedroom. She has her own small room off the living area.

They have no need of a car. The transportation system in Tokyo is excellent, and they walk everywhere. Yoshino carries a step counter.

Yoshino loves to watch Sumo Wrestling on TV as does his wife. I got into loudly reacting to those huge slamming, almost naked bodies myself, and they got a good laugh from it. He organized and basically runs an online Society of people who travel between Japan and Boston. Shisuko loves to shop and soak in the many hot springs around the area. They seem to be very playful and happy as a couple, and had no problem letting go and cutting back their lifestyle. There is a lesson here.

When we first met on this trip and I gave Yoshino a big, boistrous hug, he said, "You haven`t changed." He was smiling. I replied, "Why would I?" He is also the same friend I remembered from work, and his smaller life is no less full. I must keep this in mind as we contemplate downsizing eventually.

Day with Yoshino

We got a decent night`s sleep and got up about 5:30 am. After figuring out the machine and making espresso in our room, we showered and went down to an included buffet breakfast. There was a wide and varied buffet we enjoyed very much. The kiwi fruit was ripe and delicious to boot. I can never find a decent kiwi at home.

Our friend, Yoshino, was waiting for us in the lobby when we came down. It was rainy but warm and humid. Thus began our orientation to Tokyo public transportation at the Nagatacho subway station.

He explained where and how to go each step of the way (and there were many), but by the time we left in the evening, he decided to escort us on the bus and subway as far as his free pass would get him and leave us to travel the remaining two stops on our own. Thank goodness. I couldn`t remember any of his instructions from the morning.

We began by exploring a very posh shopping mall in Ginza complete with Prada, Louis Vutton and the rest. I thought my sister, Jeanne,  and friend, Nancy, would enjoy the experience more than I did. In the basement were all the food stalls. Larry got some candied ginger, his favorite.

Next, we headed to the fish market area. This is what I picture when I think of Tokyo: narrow streets of food stalls, household goods and people jammed together like in a sardine can; trying to politely manuever our way to his favorite sushi restaurant. It was great.

We waited on a bench in the pedestrian street for our turn, and eventually were escorted to seats at the counter. The chefs were so fun, yelling out "Welcome!" in Japanese (nobody spoke English, but everyone was friendly, smiled and bowed out of respect). I love all the bowing. I can`t remember any Japanese, but I bow and smile right back. It seems to work well.

We ate many things I never had before like little bait fish with eyes and salmon roe (I really liked them), drank sake and laughed a lot. I realized I`ve never been to a real sushi restaurant before. This was the perfect place to break that cherry.

After lunch we headed in the direction of his apartment via his daily walking route along the Arakawa River to the locks. We meandered through little neighborhoods we`d never see on a tour, patting a little Maltese puppy along the way while its owner kept saying in a little voice (for the dog), "Arigato!", just like all us dog owners do.

My watch died during the night, so Yoshino took it to a local place for a battery while his wife greeted us outside their apartment on the eighth floor. She insisted on the top floor so they`d be the top pancake if the building collapsed in an earthquake. Their building shook quite badly four years ago, but escaped undamaged. Instead of heading under the kitchen table, Yoshino stood holding their grandfather clock to keep it safe. Incredible.

Shisuko served us cake, water and green tea while we enjoyed Sumo wrestling on TV. Did you ever watch this? I was mesmerized. In between, she brought me out to their balcony to explain the neighborhood. Her whole family lives there. They are so happy to be back and don`t miss living in the States one bit. They have everything they need in easy walking distance. Then she went to pick up my watch.

A little after 5:00 pm, we walked to a local restaurant that Yoshino explained was informal and cheap. There, Shosuko introduced us to fried, skewered chicken bones and skins. I didn`t care for either, but tried them to be polite. We had other, tastier fare, thank goodness. Families soon arrived to sit in low-to-the-floor tables on pillows after removing their shoes and placing them on the racks for that purpose. We sat in the section next to it that didn`t require us to sit shoeless. It was charming. We all bowed to the staff in thanks on the way out to the street. Shosuko returned home and Yoshino escorted us most of the way back to make sure we returned safely to our hotel.

It was a lovely day and we look forward to his taking us to Kawamura tomorrow. Larry is already snoring beside me, and I`m ready at 8:30 pm to turn in. Sayonara!

Piece of Cake

Apparently, travelling west over 6,700 miles at 1:30pm is a great time to leave. There was no line to get through security, and arriving in Tokyo at 4pm the next day also means no lines to get through customs. So far everyone is friendly, and provides efficient,  fast service.

Our plane was very modern and comfortable in economy with impressive liquid crystal windows instead of shades. We had personal TVs with headsets and blankies. We got free alcohol and they fed us very well. I watched many of the academy-award nominated movies I never got to see during our 13-hour flight: Kingsman: The Secret Service, Still Alice, Birdman, The Imitation Game and The Theory of Everything.

After breezing through customs, we found our way to the airport limousine bus service for an hour and a half bus ride to our hotel. We were not only met by our friend, Yoshino, but our very friendly local guide, Myumi. We were very surprised to learn we are the only members on our tour. We feel very special indeed.

Both Myumi and Yoshino gave us a briefing of our itinerary, and then we adjourned to our very small, but very Japanese room. It is  complete with paper-looking slide window shade panels and bum-washer toilet seat. Yoshino made a point of warning us about the Japanese toilets. It can be shocking if your not prepared for the very precise aim of the spray. Hilarious!

We are wiped out. Larry napped a bit, but I got no sleep at all. We are crashed in our room with a TV that has nothing to watch, literally. We must get some rest to meet Yoshino at 9:30am tomorrow. It is supposed to rain half a day, so he`ll take us for sushi at the fish market, then to his apartment. His building is owned by relatives and is on a small river. He wants to show us his daily walk which is 3,000 steps.

Sayonara for tonight, Friends.

Leaving on a jet plane...

All our house-sitting/dog-sitting arrangements have been made. Thanks to four of my wonderful sisters! Now I can let go of those worries. On our way to Logan Airport, we picked up our son at his office, and he dropped us off at Terminal E.

We breezed through checkin and security; bought a couple of inflatable neck pillows for our non-stop flight; water and a nice thank you bottle of single malt for our friend, Yoshino, who will greet us at our hotel in Tokyo.

Now, we wait at our gate to board the 13+ hour flight. I`m a little nervous. Larry is reading a travel tips manual for Japan he downloaded on his Kindle. I just need to breathe.

We`ve never been to a country where we can`t read the alphabet. But, that`s the beauty of smart phones with translation apps, right?

We are so happy Yoshino will get us oriented for two days before our tour starts. And, he`ll be with us again the day before we leave for home. Ok. I`m getting excited now.